60. In the High Mountains

Aug 20, 2015

Around my birthday in Mid-August it is a long standing tradition to spend a few days in the High Mountains. One of my favorite places is the Habach Tal in the Hohe Tauern National Park. This large protected area comprises Austria’s highest mountains, ranging from 11 – 12 500 Feet.

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To get to the Enzian Hütte at an altitude of some 5000 Feet, one either has to take a 2 hour hike along the Habach Creek or take the Emerald Taxi. This is not a fantasy name. High up in the valley there is the only Emerald mine in Europe which is still in operation. Being late in the afternoon, we decide to take the Taxi. The Lodge is quite a nice place – as you can see – with a nice restaurant and floor heating in the spacious bathroom.

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Next morning we start on our first tour. I have been there a number of times and there are many favorite places to visit. One is an old Sennhütte, a place where fresh cheeses are made [to be tastes by the hiker en route.] Unfortunately the old people working the place have died recently and the dairy is closed at present. The creek on the left is the Habach and the peak at the end of the valley above the glacier is the Schwarzkopf.

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One of these favorite places is this mountain maple. It is the last big tree along the trail to the higher regions. It is hollowed out but the tree is still strong and healthy. I really love this tree. It’s a very special feeling to be inside.

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To be wrapped inside this tree gives a sense of great protection and security. Also, one feels very close and connected to the universe. I can stay inside for a long time and forget about what’s around me.

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I have spent many hours in this place. Both inside and around that tree. I call it my alpine garden; especially in spring [which at this altitudes means end of June], when the alpine flora is in full bloom. Due to my knee problem I don’t feel fit for a longer hike. I stay behind while Gabi decides to ascend to the Thüringer Hütte, altitude about 8000 Feet.

The next stretch of the blog is - unfortunately - without photos. Due to an unknown error the data has been damaged. Sorry about it. Towards the end the blog will be illustrated again. ;-)

I have done this hike before. It’s a steep and shorter climb up and a much flatter but longer one downhill. The Thüringer Hütte, a mountain hut with a possibility to stay overnight is the starting point for a tour to the Groß Venediger [High Venetian Peak]. A funny name perhaps for a mountain in the Austrian Alps. But, as history tells us, some hundred year back mineralogist and treasure hunters from the Veneto came across the mountains at this precise spot because of the emeralds of the Habach Valley.

While Gabi is walking up to Thüringer Hütte, I am sitting in the shade of my tree. When Gabi is back and after a hearty dinner, we took an evening walk to the Edelweiss Hütte. It’s another place to stay a little farther into the valley. Right next to it there is the ending of a landslide which came down the mountain some ten years ago from the spot where the emerald mine is located. Among the rocks and the debris it is possible with some luck to find some small emeralds. Therefore, Edelweiss Lodge is where the emerald hunters reside. They have a nice little shop where one can buy minerals. This lodge has less comfort but it is quite a unique place to stay.

Next morning, having drawn energy from my tree, I am fit again. We hike to another favorite of mine - the Wildenkar Alm. It is a small hut on the west side of the valley at an altitude of about 6000 feet. One can only hike it in summer, when the creeks have less water, because one has to cross a few and there are no bridges. Due to the Emerald Taxi, the main valley of Habach Tal is frequented by tourist. It’s mostly people coming for the day and between 10 am and 5 pm it can be quite busy. But off the beaten track we are practically alone. Along the hike today we might meet – if any – a farmer going up to the Alm to look after his cattle or his goats. Aside from that we have the alpine meadows and the mountain all for ourselves.

After walking along thundering waterfalls and crossing a number of creeks we arrive at Wildenkar Alm. It is a very nice place to rest, picnic, enjoy the views, and just lie in the sun. I even feel like taking a little nap.

However – up in the mountains, weather conditions do change rapidly. Black clouds are gathering in the Southwest and we decide on walking back. We are hardly on the way downhill again, when it starts raining. It is just light rain and no thunderstorm so it is still fun being around. Farther down the trail meanders thru an enchanting forest where we are protected. As often in y experience, when we are back at the Enzian Hütte, the rain has stopped again.

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The next day is for relaxation; just walking along the major trail in the valley, sitting by the creek, which is close to becoming a river, and enjoying the views. There a number of places to enlighten the hiker and the tourist. Like the place in the middle, a dead tree stump with holes drilled thru. Each of these little tunnels gives a view of one of the surrounding mountain peaks. In my case it is the very prominent Schwarzkopf [Black Head Peak], rising to about 11 000 feet.

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The weather being fine again – it actually did rain all night – we are having a lot of fun.

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Later on the weather changes again. There is lots of moisture in the air on the ground. It’s a perfect environment for a black mountain salamander. After having studied it, we take him away from the road to save him from an unintentional encounter with the Emerald Express.

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The next day is the time for us to leave again and with the morning mist hiding the valley head we start our way down. Walking downhill is actually more difficult for me than walking uphill, but way thru the gorge I have to do on foot. It is a very nice trail down to the parking lot where Gabi’s car is waiting. Along the way there are some stations with valuable information as to the Geology of the valley and other interesting facts.
At one place you can listen to a local legend. If you press a button, you can hear “Die Sage von der Fazenwand”, powered by a solar panel. It tells the story of an old woman [statue] and some wicked herdsman living in a log cabin high up in the mountains which were leading a very ungodly life. The woman asked them to stop their evil doings, but they wouldn’t stop and treated the old woman rather badly. So she got very angry and there came a tremendous thunderstorm and both there cabin and the mountain side where it stood came crashing down. At this place there is now a perpendicular crag called Fazenwand.

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Farther down the valley gets narrow and turns into a gorge. Water is everywhere. Being in these mountains it is sometimes very difficult for me to imagine that there more and more places in world where water is becoming a rarity. Inside the gorge there is always moisture because of the mist, created by the creek. Because of this mist, there are some rare lichens like the yellow ones at the side of the cliff.
The end of this day - which actually was my birthday – is crowned by a nice dinner which –
unfortunately is not being documented.

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